Last October I did a mock-up of the the Cashmerette Ames Jeans. Armed with some stretch cotton, I’ve revisited the pattern to make a straight leg and skinny jeans.
First a quick recap
My first version of the jeans were made in a non-stretch denim and with minor adjustments at the side seams. While they had potential the pattern needed a few tweaks. I’d used the pear torso, but ended up taking it in though the hip. After these changes it because more closer the apple torso pattern pieces.
The other issue I had was with the waistband not fitting well. It is a straight waistband and I much prefer the curved waistband from my Knipmode TNT jeans. The seam allowance on the back pocket opening was too narrow which I want to change to have a hem depth of 2cm.
After wearing them for a while, I wasn’t happy with the crotch curve. The total length was fine, but it just needed to be distributed differently – less length on the front and more sitting room in the back.
I’d been wanting to make white jeans, and did a bit of snoop shopping to get an idea of the fit that best suited me. It was a bit weird trying clothes on as I haven’t bought any RTW for almost a decade. I was appalled quality of most of the jeans, even from the more reputable stores. Guess that’s fast fashion for you.
For the most part, unless I planned to wear them with a long top to cover my hips, white jeans didn’t really suit me. Skinny jeans were a big no-no as they visually added 10kg, as did thin fabric. And then there was the issue of show-thru.
What did work was a pair of off-white moleskin-like jeans with a relaxed fit. I so tempted to buy them, but the stitch quality to horrible.
These were made using a off-white soft stretch cotton from deep in the stash. It has a bit of weight to it – enough that black underwear doesn’t show though.
From the original pattern, I’ve gone down one size – just enough to sill have a relaxed fit. I’ve used the apple torso but changed to a curved waistband by pinching out darts though the back yoke and back waistband. I’ve taken 1.5cm out of the crotch height, front and back, and added 2cm to the back extension. The legs are tapered a little more ( 1.5cm each side at the hem).
And as I final nod to the inspiration jeans, I’ve changed the front pocket to be a welt on a slight angle, putting the coin pocket just below the waistband. To finish off, I’ve used nickel rivets and button.
I think they have turned out pretty good.
Sewing Project Score card
Black Skinny jeans
While I had the pattern out, I couldn’t resist making the skinny jeans. White skinny jeans may not be for me but black is a different story. The fabric is more of a stretch canvas, rather than denim, with 50% stretch.
For this pair, I’ve gone down one size further, for a slim fit, making the similar crotch and waistband changes and using the skinny leg option. I’ve worn these a couple of times now and they have shrunk more in the wash and are now a bit tight at the calf. I’ll need to add a bit more room in them next time.