Trialling Unicose Patterns

I’ve known about Unicose patterns for a while now and having been wanting to give them a try. Their designs are quite extensive – the usual fair plus quite a lot of menswear, activewear and complex jacket designs. In the past, I’ve drafted a couple of items inspired by their designs. Recently, I plucked up the courage to purchase a few patterns to try.

I’ve known about Unicose patterns for a while now and having been wanting to give them a try.  Their designs are quite extensive – the usual fair plus quite a lot of menswear, activewear and complex jacket designs.  In the past, I’ve drafted a couple of items inspired by their designs.  Recently, I plucked up the courage to purchase a few patterns to try.

Pricing and Ordering

They are based in Chile.  The site is written in Spanish but is fairly easy to navigate.  Designs are US$4 each or 4 for US$12 and can be paid through Paypal.  Patterns are single size and are available as PDFs with a choice of letter or A4 sizing.  The PDFs for both the pattern and instructions are password protected.  When ordering, you are asked for a “national ID number” which is where you set the password you want to use.

They have sent a couple of promotional emails with special prices but these don’t appear to be available when you progress through the cart.  Bit of a con, I think.

If you order multiple sizes of the pattern, they come as separate PDFs.  The layout of the pieces within the PDF are different so it is a little hard if you need to grade between sizes.

These are the four I got, with the jacket ordered in two sizes.

Printing the patterns

The pages are borderless which may cause problems printing from some printers.  It did make it easy to butt the pages up to each other rather than have to trim or fold the corners down.

The pattern pieces have a 1cm seam allowance.

On the jacket patterns the pattern sheet was truncated so that part of the pattern was missing.  I contacted Unicose and while I got a response initially, they didn’t correct the problem, and ignored my request to provide a credit or refund.  Basically, the patterns are useless to me and for this reason alone, I’m not going to purchase from them again.   I really like the style of this jacket so I’m really bummed that either size in the pattern can’t be used.

The overview of the pattern, shown below, doesn’t have the same length:width ratio of the actual pattern.  It can look very strange at first glance.

Mpark_1403_XL_pdf_overview_web.jpg

Part of the pattern is cut off.  This was the ‘more complete’ of the two examples.

Instructions

The instructions consist of a one page cover sheet which has sewing instructions, pattern layout and fabric requirements; followed by a number of pages on how to put the PDF sheets together.  Understandably, these are only in Spanish.

The sewing instructions varied.  One pattern had a numbered list of sewing steps; very brief and makes Lekala patterns look like an essay 🙂  Another just had a tech drawing with numbers pointing to the seams to indicate the construction order.

It’s not for beginners, but if you have a reasonable idea as to how to put the garment together then you can get the jist of what is intended.  It is more like a production pattern which has been made available to the public.  A bit like StyleArc’s early days.

Fit

I can only base this on two of the four patterns I’ve looked at as the other patterns were incomplete.  These two were for knits; a t-shirt and cycling suit.

The cycling racesuit I won’t be making up as it looks like a pain unitard draft with no adaptation for the position on a bike.  It might be useful for triatholon.  Width measurements appeared to be consistent for the sizing.  Because of the negative ease it would be hard to tell if this held true for the woven patterns.

The pattern which I did make up was a knit sports shirt.  Made up in low-stretch sports jersey, I’d say it’s fairly true to size.  I chose the size on my bust measurement and altered the pattern to match my hip measurement.  If in doubt, I’d say size up rather than down.

unicose_sports_shirt

Knit Sports Shirt

This had some nice details such as a tapered V neck, contrast trim at the back hem and the option to add a mesh inset under the arm.

The armhole and sleeve design on this one is a little strange.  The base of the armhole is a V shape, rather than a flattened curve.  The armhole on the unitard was similar.  The strangest thing was the shape of the sleeve cap – very elongated at the back of the cap.  It did fit perfectly into the armhole, so this was not a cap ease thing.  The sleeve didn’t hang very well at the back and would only sit right if I had my arms forward.  Very odd.

raspberry_tee_sleeve

Strange shape to sleeve head

Once it was together, I though some of the seam positions were a little bit off; such as the backward yoke extension not meeting up with the seam in the sleeve. Definitely one to redraft.

raspberry_shirt_b

Sleeves definitely need redrafting!

Final thoughts

So my little experiment with Unicose hasn’t proven very fruitful.  My initial hesitation with purchasing had been the ordering process and sizing.   I think the sizing is probably OK and it was fairly easy to purchase though the site.  However, the truncated pattern sheets and odd drafting  will mean that I won’t be making any more purchases.

I’d be curious to hear if anyone else has tried their patterns and how they went.

raspberry_shirt_f

Hmmm 😦

  1. I’ve never heard of them before, but then that doesn’t surprise me.

    You have achieved a much better fit and your drafting has always been spot on. Are you going to have a go with this one as the style lines are good but that back sleeve cap is weird.

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    1. Thanks for the vote of confidence in my drafting 🙂 I was thinking of drafting my own version, but will make a few design changes along the way

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  2. Thanks for all that great info. I have bought a sports bra pattern 1632. The design looks really interesting. I would have liked if the instructions were able to be copied and pasted into google translate, but because they were part of a picture, I couldn’t do this. I typed some of the instructions manually into Google translate because the design is unusual and I wanted to check a few things. I have printed the pattern out and cut the pieces out and just lay them out. It looks like the same fit as my RTW sports bras. I have found Jalie sports bras too tight and the sewaholic dunbar too loose based on their size chart, so I am looking forward to making this one up. Life has got in the way so I have sewn it up yet…it has been sitting on my cutting table for 2 months. I will do a review when I get it made.

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    1. Please do let me know how the pattern goes. It was one I put on my wishlist so I’d be really interested to hear your thoughts on it. Did it have an internal pocket for removable cups? Or am I asking too much from a $4 pattern 🙂

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  3. No internal pocket on this pattern. The Sewaholic Dunbar has internal pockets but the sizing of the Dunbar is way off…you need to size down several sizes.

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