I was really impressed with the August issue of Knipmode. I’ve earmarked 7 patterns to make up. Here are the first three – a knit top (#2), a woven top (#17) and stretch woven pants (#4).
Lately I’ve been struggling to find something that I’d like to make up as many of the patterns are slight variations on something that has come before. But this edition had some really unique patterns. Yay!!!!!
#2 Knit Top
I made this entirely on the sewing machine. The fabric is a cotton lycra. To avoid bulk on the seams, I pressed them open and used the ‘lightning’ stitch to top-stitch it. I’ve also shortened the sleeves and given them a bit more width.
The ‘between the bust’ darts aren’t really my thing. I think it would look better if they are rotated to the side and followed a similar angle to the inset. Definitely one to make again – maybe with a contrast colour in the inset strips. (Edited to add… I’ve made this again with the bust darts rotated to the side. Much better!)
#3 & 4 Stretch woven Pants
These are an interesting design. I love the way the back dart has been rotated to make the back a bit different. The side seam starts at the slash pocket, curls around the back and then back to the front again. Looks good on the magazine model, especially with the piping along the seam.
The catch is that I generally need to take 15-18cm length out of KM pants, so the curved side seam added some difficulties. The front and back pieces butt together from the low hip down to the ankle. So I adjusted shortened the crotch height and length at the mid thigh and calf. Then butted the pieces together to redraw the arc of the side seam. That kind of worked well
Based on the sloper I had made, I traced the pattern one size smaller than the pattern suggested . I normal go down two sizes for KM pants, and that came back to bite me. The pants turned out way to big and I couldn’t take them in along that curved seam! So I’ve taken in as much as I could along the back crotch curve and inseam. The pant leg is starting to twist because of it.
These were only destined to be a tester pair and I’ll have another try starting from the smaller size. The back pockets will need to be made smaller ( or omitted)
#17 Woven Top
This top is so cute! There is other versions, both dresses with different skirt styles. I made a muslin for this one and tweaked the fit over the bust. It is very easy to do with this style. The top is quite short. Even on a vertically challenge person like myself, I had to add 5cm to length.
The pattern calls for a side zipper, but I found I didn’t need one.
Love, love, love this top. It is perfect for an Aussie summer and I know I’ll be making a few more versions in the future.
The fabric is a cotton, with inlay spots.