Lekala 4305 (Jacket With Stand Collar) in Denim

Detail view
Detail view

Last year I made the pattern last year “as-is” in leather and have worn it a lot. I have used the pattern as a base to knock-off of the Kuhl Burr jacket. This post covers the design changes that I made. Please see the original post for more detail on the original pattern / instructions etc.

This post covers the design changes that I made. Please see the original post for more detail on the original pattern / instructions etc.


Pattern Lekala 4305
Type Jacket
Difficulty 5 – lots of patience required
End Result
5 – “Hall of Fame”

Design changes:

The original jacket was a very good fit, so I have just altered some of the seam lines to match the of the Kuhl jacket.

  • Shorten body and sleeve pieces by 2cm to allow for wider cuffs and waistband. Made similar changes to lining pieces.
  • Combined front and back yoke pieces into one and marked topstitching lines
  • Collars/Waistband/Cuffs2015_burr_e.jpg
    • Increase width to 4cm wide.
    • Change shape of collar so the top hugs the neck a bit more
    • Add a slight “shirt-tail” shape to the back of the waistband. I had previously altered the waistband to be a two piece contoured waistband.
  • Front Side Panel
    • Merge middle and side front panels and reshape seam to a more D profile.
    • New side front panel, split into two pieces with zipper inserted into the inner piece. Zipper length set by the zippers I had on hand.
    • Drafted new two pocket pieces to match the new zipper location and shortened body length.
  • Sleeves
    • Merged the three piece upper sleeve into a single piece
    • Brought the front seam of the two piece sleeve further around to the front so the seam aligned with front yoke.
    • Drafted patch pocket. Left sleeve has two piece patch with an inset zipper.

The design changes were a bit tedious to do, especially the sleeves, but well worth the effort.

Fabric Used

Originally I was looking for a charcoal cotton canvas and planning to wax it for waterproofing. But I couldn’t find the type of fabric I was looking for, in any colour.
The fabric used is a denim fabric I was going to throw out. It has a nice weave pattern. Originally it had a blue/grey finish on it, which had not been properly dye set. After two washes to preshrink the fabric, about 3/4 of the dye was gone, leaving a blotchy grey/cream fabric.
I have overdyed it with procion dyes using a mixture of orange, brown and warm black. The result is a deep rusty brown which I really love. The fabric still has some of the blotchiness from the original dye, but I think the effect works really well for this style of jacket.
The lining is a silk satin, dyed with a acid dye (Red Ochre)


  • Zips are antique copper. The separating zip had to be shortened which was not fun, but I was able to salvage the top stops and reuse them.
  • Antique copper for the studs on the sleeve and rivets on the trims
  • Faux leather strapping for the trim on the pockets and collar.

Other notes

I used a piece of scrap wool fabric to make the sleeve head. This was probably a little flimsy for the denim but it looked better than no sleeve head at all. Next time I’ll go with something a little thicker.



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