Lekala 4425 (Blouse with ruche) in raw silk

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I found a photo of this top somewhere on Polyvore last year. It can’t remember the designer, but I loved the top. I was going to try drafting it, but on a whim I submitted the photo into Lekala’s “Suggest new style”. It got the most number of votes that week and a couple of weeks later, the pattern was it up on their web site- made to your measurements – and only for a couple of dollars . The kind of thing you only dream about. Thanks Lekala!!!
The fabrics is a raw silk noil, hand dyed using KraftKolour silk & wool dyes (acid dye). 40g waratah & 10g wombat for 360g of fabric. The result is a very vibrant Pilbara/ iron ore red. I almost managed to get the exact shade I was after. It looked right in the dye pot but dried a lightened a little when it dried. The raw silk feels lovely. It holds the ironed pleats well but didn’t wrinkle like other silks can.

It would be easy to change by leaving off the flounce, adding sleeves or just having the plain centre front. Lots of options for more versions there.

Pattern Information

Pattern Description:       Sleeveless blouse with princess seams and pleated crossover centre front panel. Right side neckline has a flounce which finished at the centre back. Invisible zipper in side seam.
Pattern Sizing:                   custom sizing based on height, bust, underbust, waist and hip measurements. I checked the options for narrow shoulders, low bust & waist. I made no adjustments to the pattern
Alterations :                       None. Usually I need to do a heap of adjustments to shorten styles and narrow the shoulders so I’d normally not sew this style of top.
Instructions:                       I bought the pattern as soon as it went up on the website and there were no instructions available at the time. Because the crossover on the centre front panel & flounce, the entire neckline and hem on the centre front pieces need to be finished before the front princess seams are sewn.  There is lots of notches to help match things up. The top two on the LH centre front are for the neckline overlap and the lower one matches the side front bust notch.
I used bias binding made from the fabric to finish the neckline and armholes.

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Part of my Autumn 2015 Wardrobe

At a Glance:

Pattern Lekala 4425
Type Woven Tops
Fabric hand-dyed raw silk
Difficulty 3 – neckline finishing needs a bit of thought
End Result 4 –  definitely a winner
Cost Approx. AU$18 ( fabric $12,  dye $2, thread $4)

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